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I'm getting closer to breaking ground on my new 24x34 free standing shop.
It'll be conventioal stud wall construction with ply exterior sheathing. I'm in a
residential area so I need to control noise as much as possible. Who has
jumped through these hoops before? There seem to be some new sound
board products out there as well as a lead like sheet that goes between the
studs and sheetrock, but some of them seem to get pretty pricey.I'll stuff the
walls with as much glass insulation as I can, but I'd like to really cut down
the db's as much as I can. There won't be any windows or doors facing the
neighbors.
All suggestions appreciated.
Thanks,
-C

_________________
Freeborn Guitars
and home of BeauGuard©

MAss stops sound. If your really concerned about noise put 2 or three
layers of sheetrock, as airtight as possible, and vary the thickness of the
sheetrock. Loose insulation stops bass sounds good too. I think,
however, once you get it all up and going you'd be surprised how little
you'll hear outside the shop.

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John Mayes
http://www.mayesluthier.com

Chas,

John is correct, mass stops the low frequency sound, a high density fiberglass sound batt (Owens Corning makes these) will help absorb some of the mid-higher frequency noise. Consider using metal studs with a resilient channel - see the USG website about this (http://www.usg.com/USG_Marketing_Content/usg.com/web_files/ Documents/System_Catalogs/SA200.pdf). From a practical standpoint, probably using two 5/8" sheets of gyp. bd. will work fine. Don't bother with the lead sheet - it doesn't stop low frequency noise. If you really want to stop sound, build two stud walls right next to each other and be sure to isolate the sill and top plates from each other. Caulk all cracks, weave the sound batt through, and then put three sheets of 5/8" gyp. bd. on one side (stagger the joints) and two on the other. That is pretty much what we do for a theater partition wall. Way overkill, but it will stop the noise. E-mail me if you need any details of wall assemblies.

Ray

You could do what I do, I play Metallica all the way up! Nobodies ever complained about the shop noise.

Actually, one of the real leaks of sound is the doors. I recorded in a recording studio that had double doors as well as concrete in the walls(not good). The owner mentioned that the doors and seals were needed, but then again the monitors were up so high it would shake the eye's in your head at certain tones!

I've heard good things about double 5/8 DW and especially with a space wall from the outside.

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Billy Dean Thomas
Covina, CA

"Multi famam, conscientiam, pauci verentur."
(Many fear their reputation, few their conscience)

As a builder I have used and highly recommend resilient channel. It is just a cheap Z shaped metal strip that you install perpendicular to the studs and joists. Your 5/8" sheetrock screws to the channel. This reduces sheetrock to wood contact and creates a "floating wall". When the low frequencys hit the wall, the entire wall gives and absorbes the sound.

The high frequencys are easily handled by R-13 batts, (or R-19 for 2x6 walls). Don't overstuff the wall with fiberglass, it just creates more contact and you lose performance.

Also, finish the outside of the building with good old 3/4" stucco, not the spray-on stuff. This is cheap and heavy.

Air leaks will be the main source of sound leakage at this point. A second layer of 5/8 sheetrock will further reduce sound transmission, but you are into the diminishing returns zone. The recording studio I built used structural rubber isolation pads to hold the entire room off of the concrete slab. The room had no contact with the structure of the building. I don't think a workshop needs this level of soundproofing.

Kurt Housh

Thanks for the tips gents. I like the idea of the resilient channel. I'll look
around for it locally. I was considering putting weather strip tape between
the sheetrock and the studs and not screwing it on too tight to reduce
"coupling" but the channel sounds more predictable.
I'm probably being over cautious, but the code says I have to conform to a
50 db max at the property line (the building is 5' from the PL) or it bumps
me into a differerent category of "home based business" regulations. I don't
need that headache !
-C

_________________
Freeborn Guitars
and home of BeauGuard©

[QUOTE=klhoush]
Air leaks will be the main source of sound leakage at this point. [/QUOTE]

Don't underestimate this point. Even if you don't go to extremes with the construction of your walls and so on, just sealing up the gaps around doors and windows will go a long way towards reducing sound levels. Conversely, much of your soundproofing effort will be wasted if you DON'T seal up the gaps.

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Todd Rose
Ithaca, NY

https://www.dreamingrosesecobnb.com/todds-art-music

https://www.facebook.com/ToddRoseGuitars/